I think the stroke weight differences makes it interesting. It seems like you've having trouble with the triple spike ends. Try splitting then into double spikes, then creating the 3rd spike as a separate overlapping object. That way you can get them to "flow" out from them stem more gracefully as they do on the D. When designing these types of curves on paper, I find it easier because I can turn the page around at different angles. On the screen it helps to rotate the design on a diagonal and rotate it back later. I'm pretty sure the awkwardness at the top of the S is due to rectilinear working conditions.
When the sans italic has zigzag rhythm, the single storey a makes sense. Let's say the upright looks like Helvetica where the n shoulder connects to the stem near the top. In the italic, the n shoulder is more angular and connects near the bottom of the stem. If the rest of the italic letters follow that zigzag classic italic pattern then of course a single storey a might be appropriate. But if the letterforms are essentially slanted uprights, having those anomalous changes to a few letters looks wack. And as Ben said, harder to read.
I think the practice of replacing the a with, essentially a truncated d, slanting and optically correcting the result is very much a 2000s type of look. If think if anyone's reading this thread in the 2030s, they're already starting to see this italic style used for nostalgic purposes.
Also: the looped e, f with descender, monocular g (when the upright g is binocular), superfluous tails, shorter hooks on f and j. I used to do these types of italic hacks because I saw it done in popular fonts in the 2000s...figured that what I was supposed to do. But it is wack to the nth degree.
I don't have any examples but on a cancelled Playstation 2 project, I wanted to to get some small text on the screen, black on white. It's no problem on a monitor but with consumer level televisions screens and composite signals, the white phosphors can wipe out the thin stems. A tiny O might look like a C. I compensated by darkening the counters a little bit and adding a little dark fuzz on areas where you'd normally have an ink trap. Like, the crotch of the V would have a little more dark pixel fuzz.
If you want to keep your favourite mouse going forever, switches are usually standard sized parts and easily replaced. Some Logitechs have a weird switch but you can find those on eBay. Sometimes, I steal a switch from one of the many functions I never use. Often they hide the screws under the pads so you should keep spares before opening. For replacement pads, check eBay for "Teflon skates". I trace and cut my own. It's like a new mouse each time.